I was thinking about blogging about real estate today, but the whole failed insurrection thing kept creeping onto my page every time I tried. I need to clear my head and step away from the news cycle. It’s been a rough week for our country and with that in mind I think we need to find our happy places. Mine is the ocean.
I’ll be surfing with friends today. I’m not sure exactly where yet but I’ve got my mind on a few sheltered spots in the City. I’m seeking shelter because the waves are pretty big right now. Specifically at noon according to Surfline.com a 13.9 ft 16 second WNW swell from 285 degrees will be hitting the coast. That’s a big one. Ocean Beach is currently triple overhead with an occasional 20 footer and rated fair to good on the Surfline. “Surf’s too big and gnarly, for me.”
I actually once made it out to the outside waves at Ocean Beach in comparable conditions. I was in my mid 20’s and it was really quite miraculous because I was able to paddle out beyond the endless lines of white water that typically block our paths when the waves get big. I found a rip current and it took me right out into the danger zone. One minute I was standing safely on the beach, a few minutes later I was bobbing in the ocean among large, shifting mountains of water (for some surfers 20 ft is not that big –but to me it’s BIG!), terrified that one would break in front of me and hold me down until I expired. After mustering the courage, I took the first wave I could and rode it all the way in, thankful to be alive.
I’ve got a few issues with Ocean Beach. The biggest is that I’ve dislocated my shoulder there several times which led to two full reconstructive surgeries in my 20s. I’ve been skewered in my back by my board and on my upper thigh, both requiring trips to the ER. That beach has chewed me up and spat me out plenty of times, but ultimately the risks have always been worth the rewards.
I used to prefer waves at Ocean Beach in the 6-10 foot range. Decades removed from those times I don’t really like them much over 6 foot at OB. I draw the line at 8 feet because it’s potentially too painful. Because the waves are more predictable, I don’t mind surfing reefs in the 6-10 foot range, which is what I’m hoping to find today. A nice sheltered reef like out at Fort Point under the Golden Gate Bridge. Fort Point is a crowded spot, but I generally hang on the inside where the waves are smaller and there is less competition.
The outside is where the juiciest and biggest waves can be found at the Fort, it’s also where it’s most dangerous. I heard a surfer tragically died there recently. There are rocks and people have been known to hit them or get swept onto them. Rest assured, that’s really not my thing. I like this life and my limbs the way they are.
I was able to get out to Bolinas on New Year’s Day with my brother Fred and also a few days ago. My last session there I could only describe as ‘meh’. It was big everywhere else on the coast but Bolinas was small, gutless and crowded. The website Magicseaweed.com rated it with five stars because it really doesn’t know, and I gave it a generous 2.5.
Just so you know, I’m not a big wave surfer and will stay on the beach only taking photos if I feel like the conditions are too much. One thing about getting older, now I surf purely for the fun of it (and exercise, plus a little enlightenment). Danger is not fun. I know where to draw the line.