I recently returned from a vacation down to the tip of Baja. My first Surf-ari down to Cabo San Lucas was in the early 80’s when I was 16 years old. Going to school at SDSU and then graduating from UCSD, I have made many trips down the peninsula and the experiences were always special. While the area has changed drastically with big hotels, condos and even a Costco, it’s still an awesome place to visit. Flying to the tip of the peninsula in early February for the first time, I hadn’t realized there would be thousands active whales off the coast, breaching, spouting and slapping their tails on the surface of the water. There are over 18,000 humpback whales off the coast this time of year, creating a natural spectacle of epic proportions!
I surfed with my friend Nick daily in the relatively warm waters: the ocean temperature is currently 71 degrees there, and 58 off San Francisco. Wave sizes ranged from 4-8 feet throughout the trip, and the line-ups were relatively uncrowded as it was the off season for tourism. We had discussed making a five hour drive up north to Scorpion Bay, but decided against it for a few reasons. #1 the surf forecast is pretty unreliable, and we didn’t want to make the trip only to get skunked. #2 gas is now over $5 a gallon in Mexico! Since the industry was privatized in recent years gas prices have sky rocketed. #3 we were getting good waves where we were already. #4, and the biggest reason was the weather was already unseasonably cold, with daytime temperatures mostly in the upper 60’s and nights in the low 50’s. I didn’t travel to Mexico to be cold, and going 300 miles north would only be colder.
One of my favorite things about the trip was looking out at the night sky, where the stars are so clear and bright. We were staying in the small town of El Pescadero, and hour north of Cabo. There is little to no light pollution, and being outside at night was just like being in the mountains on a camping trip. It was that cold too!
I did not come prepared for the cold, with only one pair of jeans and only the warm clothes I was wearing when I left San Francisco. I ended up buying more jeans at a local ‘store’, that resembled a flea market set-up. There was an open sided, roadside tent in the dirt with about 8 tables of clothing laid out and a few racks. Back in the day I would have haggled over pricing with the vendor because that’s what we did and it was game-like fun. As an adult with a little more social awareness I no longer haggle. The minimum wage is $15/day in that area of Mexico, prices are already cheap by American standards, and I felt good supporting the local businesses. I also have a lot of empathy for the people, and have a keen awareness of my own privileged life.
Our go-to meal was delicious fish tacos at various small, inexpensive and safe restaurants/taco stands. When I say safe, I mean we didn’t get sick. There was a killer carnitas restaurant, and a local bakery where several mornings I enjoyed divine pastries and freshly squeezed orange juice. The bakery was more American style than the panaderias I’ve always known in Mexico. Don’t get me wrong, I like a good panaderia and Mexican pastries as much as the next person, but for my money you can’t beat an American style chocolate almond croissant.
Working as a Realtor full time for the past twenty years I haven’t taken as many vacations as I would have liked. I have a feeling that’s going to change in the Januarys and Februarys to come, when my business volume is typically ebbing. Right now with spring around the corner things are starting to flow and I’m charged up and ready to go!